Got Beebombs for Christmas? Here’s exactly what to do next (and when)
If you’ve been given Beebombs for Christmas, you’ve got a genuinely useful little gift in your hands.
Do a tiny bit of prep, wait for the right window, and you’ll get great results.
What are Beebombs, in plain English?
They’re small handmade wildflower seedballs. Each one is a mix of clay, compost and native UK wildflower seeds, designed to make sowing easier and give seeds a fighting chance when they hit the ground.
Step 1: What to do with them right now
If it’s cold, wet, frozen, or your garden is basically a sponge, don’t rush.
Keep them dry: store indoors in a cool, dry place (a cupboard, shed, porch).
Don’t seal them in something damp: moisture is the enemy before sowing.
Leave them as they are: no soaking, no crumbling, no “helping”.
Step 2: The best time to sow:
You’ve got two great options:
Option A: Early Spring sowing (most reliable for most people)
Best window: Feb to May
Why: warmer soil, more consistent germination, easier to keep watered
Option B: Early autumn sowing (great if you can keep an eye on the patch)
Best window: September to October
Why: less heat stress and often less watering than spring
Step 3: Where to sow for the best chance of success
The single biggest factor is competition.
Wildflowers hate battling thick grass.
Aim for:
Bare soil in a sunny spot
A scruffy border edge you can clear
Pots and planters
A patch of tired lawn you can thin right back
Avoid:
Throwing onto established grass (it nearly always fails)
Deep woodchip or thick mulch
Places that regularly flood or stay waterlogged
Step 4: The simple prep that makes it work
You don’t need to dig a meadow. Just create gaps.
For ground:
Clear away grass and weeds.
Rake the surface so you can see soil.
Scatter your Beebombs and press them down lightly (good contact helps).
If you can, add a very thin dusting of soil over the top. Not compost, not mulch, just a whisper of soil.
For pots:
Use a gritty, low nutrient compost if possible.
Press Beebombs onto the surface.
Keep somewhere bright, in full sun
Step 5: Watering (the bit everyone underestimates)
If you sow in spring, watering is the difference between “nothing happened” and “oh wow”.
Water little and often for the first 2 to 3 weeks if it’s dry.
Think “keep it lightly moist”, not “soak it like a bog”.
If you miss a day, don’t panic. Just don’t let it bake into dust.
Step 6: What to expect, and what not to panic about
Wildflowers are not instant. They’re worth the wait.
Germination can take 1 to 4 weeks depending on weather.
Early growth often looks like random tiny leaves. Totally normal.
Some flowers appear later than others. That’s also normal.
Common mistakes (and quick fixes)
“I scattered them into grass.”
Fix: clear a small patch to bare soil and try again there.
“I used rich compost.”
Fix: wildflowers prefer lean conditions. Mix in sand or use a lower nutrient compost next time.
“Nothing happened.”
Fix: check moisture. Then wait another 2 weeks. Cold snaps slow everything down.
If you want a simple success plan
Pick one small patch. Make it bare soil. Sow in spring. Water for two weeks. That’s it.